Eating Dalmatia
Delicacies from Hrvatska - Split more precisely...
We spent a year in Dalmatia back in 2017-2018. We did not know what we were getting into when we chose the location. At the time, we were coming from Vienna, Austria and our tourist visas were going to expire soon. So, I looked at the map and randomly chose Split without knowing anything about it. I just knew it was near the ocean and I like water. So, we found ourselves in Diocletian’s Palace. To say that our jaws were dropped upon arrival is putting it lightly.
We had taken the train and our initial impression of the country was seeing communist-style structures. I was slightly worried what we had gotten ourselves into. However, that feeling was very shortlived upon arrival to the center of Split, and the Riva. We found ourselves in the midst of a third century palace built for the Roman Emperor, Diocletian. This was our first experience with any kind of historic structure that old.
To say that our expectations were far surpassed would be an understatement. It was like a wonderland to us. We deeply treasured our time in Split. Our only complaint was the extreme overtourism during the summer months and the tourist behaviors witnessed. Our favorite time was the off-season. When it was just us and the locals. We like it quiet.
We were also in for some adventure when it came to food. Although the region does not use an extensive array of spices, their unique dishes were worthy of exploration. Their desserts were divine. I still think the best cake I’ve ever had was in Split.
Savory Dishes
Crni rižot
Crni rižot is black risotto, or cuttlefish risotto. It is a mixture of rice and seafood. The color is off-putting, but the flavor is amaing. It is an absolute must-try if you ever visit the Dalmation coast. This is reinforced by the fact that my daughter, who was 13 at the time, stole my plate because she liked it so much. It is quite easy to find in many restaurants throughout the region.
Ćevapi, ćevapčići, or šiš ćevapi
These rolled, minced meat dishes are found everywhere in the Balkan region. It is the most common form of grilled meat and it can be found in restaurants and small food stalls in beaches. This delicious and convenient dish is always served with a side of ajvar.
Rather than explaining the skewered meat (see above), I thought you’d enjoy watching how it is done.
You can never find ćevap served without ajvar sauce. It is actually quite easy to make. I once found myself explaining to someone in Panamá how to make it since they couldn’t find it in their local grocer.
Ajvar sauce is found throughout the entire Balkan region. It is a sauce/dip/spread that is often also considered a relish. The ingredients are quite simple and they include roasted red bell peppers and eggplant. It can be eaten with meats, pastas, and even bread.
Follow this simple ajvar recipe and start your journey of exploration with your next barbecue.
Dalmatinska pašticada
This is a curated beef marinated in vinegar and spices, then stewed in red wine (or the dessert wine prošek), figs, root vegetables, tomatoes, and bacon. After stewing, it is then puréed and seasoned. The purée is served over a side of gnocchi. Grated cheese is often served on top.
Sweets
Ice cream
Ice cream in Hrvatska is a major event. As you can see from the image, they do not merely scoop ice cream out of a flat tub. No. This is ice cream that has been treated as if it is your birthday or wedding. It has additional decorations on it. From there, you will receive your scoop(s). The flavors vary, but I personally loved the pistachio the best (rhubarb was my favorite in Germany, but I’ll talk about that another day).
Sirnica
(Pinka, Maslenka, Pogača, Slatki kruh, Turta, Uskršnji kruh, Uskrsna pogača, Croatian Easter bread)
This simple bread is incredibly rich. The dough is made with flour, eggs, and butter. Then it is brushed with egg wash and decorated with course sugar. Some will add citrus or vanilla flavors, while others may have citrus zest, armotatic liquerurs, or raisins in them. This soft and dense bread melts in your mouth and leaves you wanting more. Many Croatians bake this bread to give as gifts especially during the spring equinox.
Cakes
I honestly don’t even know where to begin when it comes to Croatian cakes. There are so many and they are all the absolute best cake you have ever tried in your life. Again, I was quite a fan of the pistachio cake. However, I didn’t have a single cake I didn’t like in Croatia. If you go to Croatia, HAVE THE CAKE!
Coffee
Coffee culture is very real in Croatia. You will often see people sitting outside of coffee shops every single day for hours on end. The entire Balkan region has a well-established coffee culture. Usually it is the small cup that you see in the picture on the right. However, I ordered a few drinks (see iced coffee above) that shocked me when they arrived (also see the latte ordered with the picture of the pistachio cake - in a wine glass!). They take coffee quite seriously and it is not treated as a last minute consideration. These are feats of wonder unto themselves. That iced coffee actually had ice cream under the whipped cream.
Daily Fare
Dalmatinski pršut
Dalmatinski pršut is a dried ham that has been smoked and cured. It is usually presented with bread cheese and fruit. Unlike prosciutto from Italy, the Dalmation variety is wood-smoked and then dried for at least a year.
The curing process involves taking fresh pork legs (on-bone), the skin, and fat that is then dry-salted, pressed, and seasoned. It is then smoked and left to mature in fresh air. The air is a very important factor as the Bura (winds) in Dalmatia are often quite strong, dry, and cold. This creates very favorable conditions for quality maturation.
We were served this meat with a platter of cheeses on our arrival in Split by our AirBnB host. In fact, he brought us a feast and even put food in our refrigerator for us. It was the most amazing welcome we have ever experienced.
One Last Thing
If you do go to Split, please enjoy Marjan hill. It is stunningly beautiful. It’s a nice long nature hike (lots of stairs involved, so be prepared). However, you can have stunning views like the one above to reward you in the end. Other things to partake in are the reenactments of their historical past. They are quite proud of their history and the people are very friendly and wonderful to be around. My only request is you treat their home with respect. I wish this wasn’t something I’d ever have to say, but after witnessing tourist behaviors there, all I can say is that I was shocked regularly. I’d also recommend visiting in the spring or the fall, when the crowds aren’t there. I know Americans cannot comprehend what overtourism looks like if they’ve never been outside of North America. All I can say is imagine the Super Bowl in your city every single day for four straight months. It’s a bit much.
Bonus Suggestions
Upon publishing this article, Ives sent me some extra suggestions to include. The photos are hers.
